![]() ![]() One smaller cable came from the same terminal that the cable from the battery connected to and it went to the fuse box for distribution. ![]() Vehicles only had one fuse box and it was under the dash, so there was one big cable going to the starter and two smaller cables off the starter. It's sitting in my garage right now as I wasn't able to find any videos or tutorials on how to manually open or shut a honda odyssey door.In older cars, there wasn’t as many little electric motors, lights and electronics. The Slide Door light on the dashboard came on so all I want to do at this point is get the door manually shut so at least I can drive it where I need to. If I hit the button to close or open the door, I don't even hear the motor kick on or see the door move at all. It immediately went back to fully open position and hasn't moved since. It attempted to go forwards but barely moved at all. ![]() There is no display on the instrument panel about a problem with the PSD."Ĭan you please elaborate how you are able to get your doors to open and close manually? I've got my passenger sliding door fully open right now. The doors manually roll & close fine without any feeling of resistance or obstruction. "I suspect it's getting power to the PSD because when I manually close either door, I can see & hear the door motor automatically finish fully closing the door. Your issue is #2, the rear door latch issue. ![]() This is caused by a sticking clutch assembly in the release actuator.Įach of these issues is posted about at least once or twice a week on these forums. This is usually a switch position problem or sticking rear door latch assembly.ģ) Doors that make a popping noise or stick upon opening or closing. This happens to all of these vans by 100K, especially when the doors are used heavily over the vehicle's life (kids in and out, etc.) Most every van should have these replaced by 100-120K, especially if you have kids.Ģ) Inoperative doors, doors that pop back out slightly after latching, or a 400mA parasitic battery draw that kills the battery in a couple of days when not driven. The most common failures of these doors are:ġ) Middle roller assembly bearings wear out and the door gets noisy and/or slow. Your options are to either 1) clean/lube the entire latch assembly or, 2) replace the entire latch assembly. As I mentioned, it can be an electrical issue with one of the switches or a mechanical issue of sticking latch components that don't activate or deactivate the switch when it's supposed to. What other options am I missing? Since this started when the battery died, I suspect it has to be a reset/homing issue and not a roller or motor issue, but I am a loss for what else to try. When I press the PSD switches (when it's in the "On" position), nothing happens - no motor sounds or beeps or anything like it's even trying to work. There is no display on the instrument panel about a problem with the PSD. I suspect it's getting power to the PSD because when I manually close either door, I can see & hear the door motor automatically finish fully closing the door. I also tried disconnecting & reconnecting the negative battery cable and that didn't help. I tried every possible combination of all the fuse tricks (like resetting #7 on the driver's side as well as the others on the passenger side and under the hood), and I tried all combinations of having the doors open or closed, then having various ignition settings, etc. I've spent many hours researching and trying all suggestions in this forum, other forums, and YouTube, but haven't found anything that works. We rarely had problems with the power sliding doors, and recently when the battery died (after my not using it for a couple weeks when going out of town), both sliding doors quit working. ![]()
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